New Jersey homeowner guide
Call by the source, after safety. Gas smell: leave and call 911 and the gas utility. Water near the power: an electrician. A leaking pipe or water heater: a plumber. Sewage from a drain: the sewer utility, then a plumber. Standing water or soaked drywall from any source: a water damage restoration company the same day, because EPA says to dry within 24 to 48 hours.
Not sure which one you have? The table below sorts twelve things you might see in the basement into who to call first and second, and the ten-minute checks after it tell you where the water is coming from. Every rule and number is named to its source, read on November 4, 2026.
Last updated November 4, 2026. LA Trusted Partners routes water damage and related requests to independent providers after your consent. LA Trusted does not perform mitigation, cleanup, drying, mold remediation, insurance adjusting, or restoration work, and it does not do plumbing, electrical, sewer or waterproofing work. Safety steps come from CDC, drying from EPA, utility numbers from each utility's own page, insurance rules from New Jersey's Department of Banking and Insurance and FEMA, and license rules from New Jersey's Division of Consumer Affairs.
Most basement water needs two calls: one to get the water out and dry the space, and one to fix where it came from. Which trade fixes the source depends on the source, so start with what is in front of you. Angi (updated July 20, 2026) says a plumber can handle most leaks, but if your foundation is the issue you will need a structural engineer as well, and that if the water is visibly caused by a leaking pipe you should call a plumber.
| What you see | Likely source | Call first | Then | LA request path |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| A gas smell anywhere in the house | A gas leak; not a water problem yet | Leave, then 911 and the gas utility (numbers below) | Do not go back in until you are told it is safe (CDC) | None: the utility comes first |
| Water touching outlets, cords, the panel or plugged-in appliances | Any source; the danger is the power | An electrician, if the breaker can only be reached through water (CDC) | An electrician checks the system before the power goes back on (CDC) | Electrical |
| Water spraying or running from a pipe, fitting or supply line | Plumbing (clean water) | Shut the main water valve, then a licensed plumber | Restoration if water is standing or materials are soaked | Plumbing |
| A puddle around the base of the water heater | The tank, a fitting or the relief valve | A licensed plumber | Restoration if carpet or drywall got wet | Water heater replacement |
| Water at the washer, utility sink or dishwasher line | A hose, drain or appliance (often gray water) | Shut the appliance valve, then a plumber | Restoration for wet materials; appliance repair for the machine | Plumbing |
| A burst pipe after a cold snap | A frozen pipe | Shut the main valve, then a plumber | Restoration; call the insurer the same day | Plumbing |
| Sewage or dark, smelly water rising from a floor drain, toilet or tub | A sewer or drain backup (Category 3) | Stop running water; call the town's sewer utility to ask whether the public main is backed up, then a plumber or sewer service | Restoration that handles Category 3 water | Sewer line repair or drain cleaning |
| The sump pit is full or the pump is not running | A failed pump, a power cut or a stuck float | A plumber or waterproofing contractor for the pump | Restoration if the floor is covered; check your sump overflow endorsement | Plumbing |
| Water along the wall-to-floor joint or through wall cracks after rain or snowmelt | Groundwater or surface water outside | Restoration first if water is standing | A foundation or waterproofing contractor once dry; a structural engineer if the foundation itself is the issue (Angi) | Foundation repair |
| Water coming in under a basement window or a filling window well | Roof and gutter runoff or grading | Restoration if water is standing | Gutters, downspouts and grading so rain drains away from the house (CDC) | Gutter repair |
| Inches of standing water, or wet carpet, drywall or insulation, whatever the source | Any source | A water damage restoration company the same day | The trade that fixes the source, from the rows above | Water damage (this page's form) |
| Damp walls or sweating pipes with no puddle and no running water | Often condensation; EPA says condensation can be a sign of high humidity | Nobody urgently: dry the air and watch it | Mold remediation if you smell must or see growth | Mold remediation |
The table is this page's reading of the sources cited on it (CDC, EPA, Angi, The Restoration Group and New Jersey's own agencies); it is a starting point, not a diagnosis. The last column is the LA Trusted request page for that kind of job; the request goes to an independent provider, and coverage depends on the town.
CDC: never turn power on or off yourself, or use an electric tool or appliance, while standing in water. Have an electrician check the house's electrical system before turning the power on again.
EPA WaterSense: check your water meter before and after a two-hour period when no water is being used; if the meter changes at all, you probably have a leak. A moving meter with every tap off points to the supply side, which is a plumber's job.
Water around the water heater, the washer or under a pipe run points inside the house. A wet line along the wall-to-floor joint or below a crack, with dry pipes above it, points outside. Water around a floor drain points to the drain or sewer line.
Clear water from a supply line is Category 1 in the IICRC standard The Restoration Group describes; gray water from a washer or dishwasher is Category 2; sewage or water that has sat long enough to become contaminated is Category 3. Smell and color tell you which call to make and how it must be cleaned.
Water that showed up during or after rain or snowmelt with no plumbing running points outside. Water that showed up after a freeze, or on a dry day, points to a pipe or appliance. Write the time down; the insurer and the provider will both ask.
The meter check is EPA WaterSense's; the water categories are from the IICRC S500 standard as The Restoration Group describes it. Where the water sits and when it started are this page's reading, not a source's rule.
The Restoration Group, a Union County restoration company, explains the IICRC S500 standard's three categories (August 27, 2026): Category 1 is clean water from a supply line or appliance; Category 2 (gray water) comes from dishwashers, washing machines, or toilet overflow without solids; Category 3 (black water) includes sewage, floodwater, or any water that has sat long enough to become contaminated.
It says Category 3 requires full protective equipment, antimicrobial treatment, and disposal of porous materials that absorbed the contaminated water, which is why a sewage backup costs more to clean than a clean-water leak of the same size. CDC adds that a flooded home may also be contaminated with sewage.
For the call, that means: clean water from a pipe is a plumber and, if it soaked in, a drying crew; sewage is a sewer or drain service and a restoration company that handles Category 3 water, and nobody should wade in without protection.
EPA says condensation can be a sign of high humidity. Sweating cold-water pipes or a damp wall on a humid day, with no running water and a still meter, is usually a moisture problem to dry out, not a leak to chase. If it smells musty or you see growth, use the mold remediation request.
| Utility | What it says to do | Source |
|---|---|---|
| PSE&G (gas) | Evacuate, call 911, then PSE&G at 1-800-880-7734 | Read it |
| Elizabethtown Gas | Leave the building, call 911 and Elizabethtown Gas at 1-800-492-4009 | Read it |
| New Jersey Natural Gas | 800-GAS-LEAK (800-427-5325), 24 hours | Read it |
| South Jersey Gas | Report a gas leak: 1-800-582-7060 (NJ Board of Public Utilities list) | Read it |
| PSE&G (power outage) | Text OUT to 4PSEG (47734), or call 1-800-436-7734 | Read it |
Each number was read on the utility's own page on November 4, 2026, except South Jersey Gas, which comes from the New Jersey Board of Public Utilities' customer assistance list. Your bill names your gas utility.
When the furnace or water heater sits in the basement, water and gas can be in the same room. CDC says that if you smell gas or suspect a leak, turn off the main gas valve, open all windows, leave immediately, and notify the gas company or the police or fire department.
Do not call from inside if you smell gas: PSE&G's and Elizabethtown Gas's own pages say to leave the building first, then call 911 and the utility.
When the water arrives with the storm and the plumbing is quiet (the meter is still, no pipe is dripping), the source is outside: water at the wall-to-floor joint, through a crack, under a basement window, or from a full window well.
CDC says to prevent outdoor water from re-entering: rainwater from gutters or the roof should drain away from the house, and the ground around the house should slope away from it to keep basements and crawl spaces dry.
It depends on where the water came from, which is one more reason to find the source before the cleanup erases it. The New Jersey Department of Banking and Insurance's homeowners policy summary and its consumer guide Insuring Your Home set out the general lines; your own policy and endorsements decide the claim.
| What happened | What the source says | Source |
|---|---|---|
| A pipe or water heater bursts suddenly | Sudden and accidental water damage is on DOBI's list of losses a homeowners policy covers | DOBI homeowners summary |
| Water seeps in over weeks or months | Not covered: water damage resulting from continuous and repeated seepage | DOBI homeowners summary |
| A pipe freezes and bursts | Not covered unless the water was shut off or the building was heated | DOBI homeowners summary |
| A sewer or drain backs up, or the sump pump overflows | Only with an endorsement; DOBI says that coverage is usually limited to $5,000 | DOBI, Insuring Your Home |
| Rain or a river floods the basement from outside | Not covered by homeowners: flooding including tidal surge; flood insurance is separate (NFIP) | DOBI homeowners summary |
| You have NFIP flood insurance | Basement coverage is limited to listed building items and cleanup; finished floors, walls and personal property in the basement are excluded | FEMA basement fact sheet (January 2022) |
| You buy flood insurance after the storm is forecast | Typically a 30-day wait from purchase before the policy takes effect | FEMA FAQ |
| Mold follows the water | Not covered unless it results from a covered loss | DOBI homeowners summary |
DOBI says sewer backup or sump pump overflow coverage may be available separately as an endorsement, usually limited to $5,000, and calls it an important endorsement to consider since downed power lines in a storm may cause sump pumps to stop working.
FEMA's basement fact sheet says NFIP basement coverage is limited to listed building items (such as furnaces, water heaters and sump pumps) and cleanup such as pumping out trapped floodwater and structural drying. DOBI notes you do not have to live in a flood zone to buy flood insurance, but you do have to live in a community that participates in the NFIP; FEMA says there is typically a 30-day wait from purchase.
The Restoration Group publishes these New Jersey ranges for the scenarios its crews handle across Union County and the broader New Jersey market (August 27, 2026). They are one company's typical ranges, not LA Trusted prices and not quotes:
The fix for the source (the plumber, the sewer service or the foundation work) is a separate bill. The water damage restoration cost guide lays out published New Jersey and national prices for drying and rebuild side by side.
New Jersey's Truth in Renting guide says landlord obligations require proper and timely notice from the tenant to the landlord where there are safety and sanitation conditions that must be corrected, and that tenants have the right to safe, sanitary, and decent housing; residential leases carry an implied warranty of habitability.
So the first call for a tenant is the landlord or property manager, with photos and the time it started, by text or email so there is a record. Gas or water near the power still comes first: 911, the gas utility or an electrician.
Tell us who you are and where the property is, then note where the water is, where you think it came from, whether it is still coming in, and whether it is clean water or sewage. We take it from there and an independent provider calls you back.
Coverage depends on the town and the job, and a request is not a guarantee that a provider is available. LA Trusted does not perform mitigation, cleanup, drying, mold remediation, insurance adjusting, or restoration work, and does not promise a response time. The matched provider is responsible for assessment, mitigation plan, documentation, equipment, pricing, and customer terms. Customers should ask what services are included, what documentation is provided, and whether insurance billing is involved.
If gas is involved or water is near the power, call 911, the utility or an electrician before you send this. The water damage restoration request page takes the same request.
Call by the source, after safety. Smell gas: leave, then call 911 and your gas utility. Water near outlets or the panel with no dry path to the breaker: an electrician (CDC). A leaking pipe or water heater: shut the main valve and call a licensed plumber. Sewage from a floor drain: your town's sewer utility, then a plumber or sewer service. Standing water or soaked carpet and drywall from any source: a water damage restoration company the same day.
Stay out of standing water until the power is off from a dry spot or by an electrician (CDC). Shut the main water valve if a pipe or appliance is leaking. Photograph the water line, the source and the damaged items. Then start drying: EPA says to dry water-damaged areas and items within 24 to 48 hours to prevent mold growth.
Usually two calls. A water damage restoration company removes the water and dries the space. A second trade fixes the source: a plumber for pipes, fittings, the water heater or the sump pump; a sewer or drain service for backups; a foundation or waterproofing contractor for water through walls or the floor. Angi says a plumber can handle most leaks, and that if the foundation is the issue you will need a structural engineer as well.
If water is still running from a pipe or appliance, the plumber (or your own hand on the main valve) comes first, because nothing dries while water keeps coming. Angi says to call a plumber when the water is visibly caused by a leaking pipe, and to consider a water remediation team in addition when there is extensive standing water. If the source has stopped and the floor is wet, call the restoration company first.
If water is standing, a water damage restoration company to remove it and dry the space. Once it is dry, a foundation or basement waterproofing contractor to find where it got in, and a gutter provider if the roof runoff is landing at the foundation. CDC says rainwater from gutters or the roof should drain away from the house and the ground should slope away from it to keep basements dry.
Stop running water in the house, keep people and pets out, and call your town's sewer utility to ask whether the public main is backed up; if it is your own line, a plumber or sewer service clears it. Sewage is Category 3 water under the IICRC standard, which The Restoration Group says requires full protective equipment, antimicrobial treatment and disposal of porous materials that absorbed it.
The Restoration Group, a Union County restoration company, publishes these New Jersey ranges (August 27, 2026): $3,500 to $7,500 for a finished basement with clean or gray water after a sump failure, $4,000 to $10,000 for a sewage backup in a basement or lower level, and typically $1,500 to $15,000 for a residential loss overall, with most residential losses landing in the $3,000 to $8,000 range. They are one company's typical ranges, not quotes.
Sudden and accidental water damage, such as a burst pipe, is on the New Jersey Department of Banking and Insurance's list of covered losses. DOBI's summary lists flooding, water damage from continuous and repeated seepage, and freezing pipes (unless the water was shut off or the building was heated) as not covered. Sewer backup and sump pump overflow need an endorsement, which DOBI says is usually limited to $5,000.
Only partly. FEMA's fact sheet says basement coverage under the National Flood Insurance Program is limited to listed building items, such as furnaces, water heaters and sump pumps, plus cleanup like pumping out floodwater and structural drying. Finished flooring, finished walls, bathroom fixtures and personal property in the basement are excluded. FEMA says there is typically a 30-day wait from purchase before a policy takes effect.
Yes, if you can reach the main power from a dry location, CDC says to turn it off even if it delays cleaning. If you would have to stand in water to reach it, call an electrician to turn it off. CDC also says to have an electrician check the electrical system before the power goes back on.
EPA says to dry water-damaged areas and items within 24 to 48 hours to prevent mold growth, and that if wet materials are dried within that window, in most cases mold will not grow. If you cannot dry it that fast with fans and a dehumidifier, call a water damage restoration company.
Your landlord, right away and in writing. New Jersey's Truth in Renting guide says landlord obligations require proper and timely notice from the tenant where there are safety and sanitation conditions that must be corrected, and that residential leases carry an implied warranty of habitability. If there is a gas smell or water near the power, call 911 or the utility first.
Every source was read on November 4, 2026. Naming a company as a source is not a recommendation; LA Trusted has no arrangement with The Restoration Group or Angi.
One request with where the water is, where it came from and the town. An independent New Jersey provider calls you back; LA Trusted does not pump, dry, repair or warranty the work.
